One of the world’s most respected voices in professional skincare, Dr Des Fernandes, took the stage in Cape Town for ICOPLAST 2025, where he reflected on three decades of innovation in skin needling and its growing role in modern aesthetic practice. For clinic owners and treatment-led teams, his lecture offered a clear lens on where this technique started, what the evidence had shown to date, and how practitioners could continue to advance safe, effective results within clinical scope.
From a single idea to a global standard
Long before skin needling became part of everyday clinic menus, Dr Fernandes explored its potential in the mid-1990s. He began clinical research into horizontal skin needling in 1994 and shared early findings internationally by 1996. By 1997, he initiated vertical skin needling trials in Cape Town, focusing on concerns commonly seen in clinic (acne scarring, burn scars and fine lines) work that quietly set the foundation for today’s protocols and devices.
His development of the first roller-style instruments marked a turning point for precision and reproducibility. What started as an exploratory procedure evolved into a widely adopted approach now known in many practices as Percutaneous Collagen Induction (CIT) or micro-needling, taught and practised around the world.
Key messages from the lecture
- Technique still mattered: Timing between treatments, needle length selection and meticulous aftercare continued to influence outcomes more than trend-led add-ons.
- Skin health first: Supporting the skin with topical vitamin A, vitamin C and peptides remained central to preparing for, and recovering from, procedures within clinic protocols.
- Safety as the north star: Standardised tools and well-trained hands underpinned the reliability and consistency that busy practices required.
Why it mattered for clinics
For salon teams and medical-aesthetic clinics, Dr Fernandes’ session reaffirmed the value of pairing intelligent technique with a disciplined home-care plan - especially when building long-term client trust. It also reinforced how professional skincare brands born from clinical thinking, such as Environ Skincare, could support treatment journeys with structured, education-led systems for retail and backbar.
Cape Town hosted the conversation
ICOPLAST 2025 took place from 17–19 September 2025 at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, gathering surgeons, clinicians and educators to exchange ideas and showcase advances. Against this backdrop, Dr Fernandes’ lecture traced the history of skin needling and highlighted what the next decade could hold as evidence and technique continued to refine.
What progressive teams took back to the clinic
Beyond the science, the clear takeaway for practice owners was practical: keep protocols evidence-informed, keep education current, and keep clients on a considered home routine. When these elements aligned, the client experience felt more polished and predictable - an asset for any treatment-driven business.
About Dr Des Fernandes
A Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeon based in Cape Town, Dr Fernandes founded Environ skincare in 1990 and became one of the earliest medical professionals to champion vitamin A and antioxidants in cosmetic formulations. He published widely, lectured globally and continued to shape conversations around skin regeneration and longevity within aesthetic medicine.
About ICOPLAST
The International Confederation of Plastic Surgery Societies (ICOPLAST) is a non-profit organisation focused on education, collaboration and high professional standards, with its world congress convening leading voices to improve patient outcomes through shared learning.
Partner with Margifox Distributors
If you’re inspired by Dr Des Fernandes’ vision and want to bring Environ professional skincare into your business, there are two simple ways to take the next step. You can become a stockist and gain access to proven professional skincare, advanced education and ongoing support. Or, if you’d like to learn more first, reach out to your Business Development Manager or contact our team to discuss how Environ can fit into your clinic’s treatment offering.
Whichever path you take, we’re here to help your business deliver consistent results and build long-term client trust with professional skincare that makes a measurable difference.
